![Permanent Style](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- Видео 59
- Просмотров 1 694 716
Permanent Style
Великобритания
Добавлен 25 окт 2011
Permanent Style is the UK's leading website on luxury, craft and classic style. Run by British journalist and stylist Simon Crompton, it has been at the forefront of modern menswear for over 10 years. More details on its coverage and millions of readers at PermanentStyle.com
Making shoes for the King: An interview with Tony Gaziano
Who makes shoes for King Charles? What was he wearing to his coronation? And who out there could focus on nothing but those shoes the whole time!?
Tony Gaziano is one of the world’s finest shoemakers. He is also unique in being a designer, a bespoke maker, and running a ready-made factory and brand. In the past 15 years he has gone from starting out on his own, to opening the first factory in Northampton for 100 years, and then the first shoe shop on Savile Row.
Simon Crompton, the founder of Permanent Style, has known Tony for much of that time, and the two of them enjoy digging into what makes quality shoes, why they have become so expensive, and which of them is ageing better.
GazianoGi...
Tony Gaziano is one of the world’s finest shoemakers. He is also unique in being a designer, a bespoke maker, and running a ready-made factory and brand. In the past 15 years he has gone from starting out on his own, to opening the first factory in Northampton for 100 years, and then the first shoe shop on Savile Row.
Simon Crompton, the founder of Permanent Style, has known Tony for much of that time, and the two of them enjoy digging into what makes quality shoes, why they have become so expensive, and which of them is ageing better.
GazianoGi...
Просмотров: 4 213
Видео
How to pack for a week-long trip - Permanent Style
Просмотров 6 тыс.2 месяца назад
How do you pack the minimum amount of clothes, yet get the maximum number of outfits? So they cover formal and casual, on and off-duty? It's all about clothes that all work together. In this video British author and journalist Simon Crompton explains what he brings, with the help of Globe-Trotter, for a week-long trip. This builds on the shorter trip video you can see here: ruclips.net/video/Ok...
How to pack for a short trip - Permanent Style
Просмотров 13 тыс.3 месяца назад
How do you pack the minimum amount of clothes, yet get the maximum number of outfits? So they cover formal and casual, on and off-duty? It's all about clothes that all work together. In this video British author and journalist Simon Crompton explains what he brings, with the help of Globe-Trotter. For advice on packing the case itself, see previous video here: ruclips.net/video/r6mYoYLQfQw/виде...
The future of Savile Row - with Anda Rowland of Anderson & Sheppard
Просмотров 11 тыс.6 месяцев назад
Anda Rowland, director of famed Savile Row tailor Anderson & Sheppard, talks to Simon Crompton about how the changes she has seen in the past 20 years, and what the Row needs to prosper in the years ahead. This talk was held in front of an audience of Permanent Style readers at Mortimer House in London
How menswear design works - with Luke Walker of LEJ
Просмотров 7 тыс.8 месяцев назад
How do traditional menswear companies and fashion ones compare? What value does design have at both? Luke Walker has designed for the likes of Dunhill and Drake's, but also Lanvin and McQueen. Hear him talk about the beautiful clothing that can emerge from fashion (at some brands, in some periods) and how fans of more classic menswear might appreciate it. The Games Blazer at Drake's, handcut ve...
Rubato interviewed: Carl Pers and Oliver Dannefalk
Просмотров 9 тыс.Год назад
Simon interviews Carl Pers and Oliver Dannefalk from the brand Rubato. For ease you might describe them as a Swedish knitwear brand, but as the talk shows, that’s not a label they like and indeed all labels have their downsides. The rather philosophical talk also covers why some styles endure, the attraction of easy but elegant clothes, and why most brands don’t end up offering what the founder...
Photographer Jamie Ferguson on his career and his style
Просмотров 7 тыс.Год назад
One of the best-known photographers to emerge from men’s street style in London in the past 10 years, Jamie Ferguson built a career from working with blogs, brands and shops, learning on the job and gradually building his reputation. He chats to long-time collaborator Simon Crompton of Permanent Style, about how he got into photography, how his work has changed over time, and how his style has ...
How to hand wash knitwear
Просмотров 11 тыс.Год назад
Hand washing good knitwear can seem scary, or a little too much work. In this video, Simon Crompton of Permanent Style demonstrates that it can be easy, quick and satisfying, and brings the best out of quality jumpers - with the help of Ronnie Chiu from knitwear brand Colhay's. The video is set in the Permanent Style pop-up between tenant brands, and uses a piece of Colhay's knitwear to show th...
Ethan Newton's style, as Bryceland's comes to London
Просмотров 16 тыс.Год назад
The menswear brand Bryceland's has gained a reputation for real, quality workwear alongside its classic tailoring. As it opens its first store in the UK, founder Ethan Newton talks to journalist Simon Crompton about how the shop has evolved, how his own style has changed, and what he wears on a first date. The products on display are from Bryceland's, accessible at BrycelandsCo.com and in the T...
Subcultures and style: A talk with Tony Sylvester
Просмотров 9 тыс.Год назад
Can subcultures ever exist in the way they did in the past? Why are logos better on some clothes than others? Why do French men dress like happy Englishmen? Menswear writer, designer and critic Tony Sylvester is Simon's latest guest for an interview about the things that influence style, and how they've changed over the past 40 years. The products on display are from Tony’s brand, AWMS. For mor...
The art of pressing in bespoke tailoring
Просмотров 7 тыс.Год назад
Savile Row tailoring is known for its hand cutting and delicate hand sewing. But just as important is the way the pressing of a suit - the way steam and pressure can shrink the cloth, stretch it and shape it. And this rarely gets talked about. In this video, British author Simon Crompton shows the difference that pressing makes, with the help of Dege & Skinner on Savile Row.
Savile Row tips on stain removal - all the best tricks
Просмотров 9 тыс.3 года назад
Savile Row tailor Ben Clarke gives us his tips on dealing with stains on good suits - and when to do nothing at all. Presented by British journalist Simon Crompton
How to hem your trousers - like a Savile Row tailor
Просмотров 24 тыс.3 года назад
Savile Row cutter Ben Clarke explains the way trousers should be hemmed - and how you can repair your trousers when the hem comes undone. A practical video that allows you to master the techniques at home, Ben and British journalist Simon Crompton discuss the methods, including three different ways of stitching.
Sew on a button - like a Savile Row tailor
Просмотров 48 тыс.3 года назад
The ultimate video on sewing on a button. Savile Row cutter Ben Clarke explains how the best suits in the world have their buttons attached, including waxing, twisting and knotting. British author Simon Crompton quizzes Ben throughout, and highlights how viewers can copy the techniques at home - or on the go. Taken from leading menswear site PermanentStyle.com
How can Luxury Menswear adapt to a more digital future?
Просмотров 6 тыс.3 года назад
British author Simon Crompton chairs a discussion with five leading menswear shops and artisans, to discuss how they can adapt their services to a post-Covid world - with less travel, fewer trunk shows, and more retail just online. Organised by shirting mill Thomas Mason, the speakers are Mark Cho of The Armoury, Greg Lellouche of No Man Walks Alone, bespoke shirtmaker Luca Avitabile, Chris Cal...
Visiting a tailor - or shirtmaker - for the first time
Просмотров 18 тыс.4 года назад
Visiting a tailor - or shirtmaker - for the first time
How to dress up without standing out
Просмотров 30 тыс.4 года назад
How to dress up without standing out
What does 'spalla camicia' on a suit really mean?
Просмотров 28 тыс.4 года назад
What does 'spalla camicia' on a suit really mean?
English and Neapolitan jackets compared
Просмотров 74 тыс.4 года назад
English and Neapolitan jackets compared
Ivy Style: Its history and its resurgence today
Просмотров 34 тыс.4 года назад
Ivy Style: Its history and its resurgence today
How tailoring is worn today - with Saman Amel
Просмотров 25 тыс.4 года назад
How tailoring is worn today - with Saman Amel
Creating Illusions ;) noted!
Constructive criticism....Simon has a very regular bad habit of asking his guest a question, then as they pause midway through their answer, he butts in, and answers it for them. Very unprofessional, very rude, very arrogant. If you read this Simon, rewatch any of your interviews, and stop doing it....! The real art of conversation is learning to listen.....
In a world where quality and standards are declining, it is vital that companies like Gaziano and Girling survive and thrive. They are easily the best shoes I have ever owned.
Nice to hear
Wonderful interview, I thought it was a very honest and real take on the industry. One minor point I take some issue with is the implication that Brexit has impacted the availability of skilled immigrant workers in the UK. If you look at the actual numbers however, the UK let in twice as many immigrants last year than they did the year prior to Brexit.
Thank you. Yes, obviously a complex subject, but I think those numbers have largely been an increase in non-EU that outweighed the decrease in EU - eg from Hong Kong. Workers can of course come from anywhere, but generally the easiest has historically been from locations inside the EU.
What a fascinating conversation. From someone who has just commissioned a suit for the first time, it is very interesting hearing both your reflections on the industry and tailoring in general.
Great to hear. Hope the suit goes well
Wonderful interview. Would love to have been there in person. Interesting and concerning issue tony raised regarding the scarcity of qualified staff and training. Hope this precious craft and indeed equipment finds a way to sustain.
Thanks, lovely to hear it came across in that way
The guy in the video is not pressing properly or using the sleeve board properly.... a sleeve board should be inside the dam sleeve....a 2x4 covered in cotton felt with the corners sanded smooth can be placed inside the sleeve to press easily.... make your own tools .... and you get exactly what you want ..... use 2x4 that is low in pitch content or use hardwood or even plywood
Take a pressing cloth I use flour sack material... fold it several times to get a gentle roll start with more thickness of press cloth at first being careful not to press hard and make a crease.... you can take a piece of 1/8th inch plywood covered with felt or thin cotton batting.... you can have a straight edge plywood or concave or convex... just steam the edge more than pushing down with the iron use plenty of steam or spritz the press cloth or plywood press board batting.... you can shape the lapel to take your desired shape.... using plywood (sand the edge to a nice roundthen cover with cotton felt/batting) covered with cotton batting or felt... this board will make pressing lapels easy make 2 one with convex lapel one with concave and both with a straight edge in the other side you can make this narrow so it fits into sleeves and it will speed your pressing... when you steam let the moisture dry thoroughly and the lapel will take a nice set without a crease or sharp line which runs the drape.
You could also use a small dowel inside a folded press cloth and bend the dowel to the curvature you desire... use bigger dowel for more roll or thin dowel line a bamboo skewer for tighter roll...
Very well done, but seems tailored (pun intended) for cooler weather. I'd love to see a version of this for warmer climes. Thanks.
Thanks. If you look on PermanentStyle.com you'll find one I did about travelling to Japan in hot weather
Such a brilliant interview and fireside chat as always, Tony Gaziano really comes across as an immaculate, thoughtful and articulate gentleman, the perfect ambassador for both his brand and products.
If someone watched the entire coronation and only looked at the shoes the whole time I'd suggest they immediately get to an analyst because there is something seriously wrong with them.
If you made the shoes for the King and were worried he might slip over, I have to say I'd be thinking about that a lot!
Such a big G&G fan generally; but also for Tony himself. It's skill, personality, quality, team, belonging - which you are paying for. I've only met Tony once (had a good chat about Cheltenham races), but have met the rest of the guys loads. There is a thread of humbleness and class that runs through them all. And what an honour to make something so personal and tactile for the King.
I wear orthotics due to an old army injury and told Tony I needed a pair of fairly traditional bespoke Oxford style boots making which would accommodate my unusual feet shapes (with a soft, low cut ankle section - something I could discreetly wear in wet weather under black tie or white tie trousers), but still I wanted to see something of a modern twist to the old-fashioned plain Oxford vamp. In thirty seconds he interpreted my thoughts and sketched on a sheet of paper a lovely twist on the traditional design - exactly what I was looking for - remarkable. I’m really looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Just found your Chanel. Really enjoying it. I do not dress formally. But still enjoy learning. Great job 🇬🇧
Thanks. I wish I had some Chanel...
@@PermanentStyleLondonchannel 😅
Where is your blazer from? It’s fire 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks. It's The Anthology
I always like monochrome and multiples for travel. (Admittedly, that's my go-to in general, but I like it even more for travel.) It's easy to pack a bunch of pieces in different weights that all work together. If you end up with weather that's not exactly what you expected and you end up having to re-wear something constantly It's not so obvious. Like, I just got back from Helsinki. It was supposed to be in the forties and fifties, but I brought a knee length gray cashmere coat just in case. (It's nice to have a luxe, elegant option for colder nights that's not formal if nothing else.) It was blizzarding almost the whole time we were there, so I basically wore it for a week. I was super happy to have a whole suitcase of black and gray separates to coordinate with it. Keeping it all monochrome reads more "signature look" and less, "this is the only jacket I brought that works."
As someone who is putting in the work to start a Menswear brand, love hearing these conversations. Gives some outside perspective for someone who is very sartorially isolated in the mid-west US. Any advice for trying to find/source manufacturers?
*finally* Love your videos and series
Thank you
Why doesn’t this all this just get undone when the suit is cleaned?
Good question. Partly it's because once the garment has been shaped by the iron, the stitching holds the shape in place. With other areas, like the trousers, the pressing needs to be redone when the suit is cleaned. But then, tailoring should only be cleaned very rarely. Unless you spill something on it, brushing and other care at home is sufficient, and better for the cloth
Hate to see someone opening half the buttons on his shirt , looks awful.
This is priceless, sir. For someone who actually wants to do such thing , not having a teacher, this is priceless. Thank. you.
Oh good, lovely to hear
The prices are not a "destination" for what 99.9% of the general population. Not complicated.
Well explained and in such a way that an individual might easily modify the choices, based on the underlying logic (for instance, I don't really use t-shirts for general wear).
Nice to hear, thank you
Let's talk menswear. Exposing your chest down to your belly is not cool.
That's a little narrow minded, if only for the fact that it certainly has been cool at points historically. And if you think the buttons are there for a reason, the logical conclusion would be to do them all up all the time?
@@PermanentStyleLondon That's like saying, every button on a 3-piece suit must be buttoned. Nobody thinks the top button of a dress shirt must be buttoned, but if you wear one and expose your chest hairs down to your frieken navel...aside for the fact that, frankly, nobody sane is interested, you are also not cool or hip or stylish. Just a wannabe loser desperate for attention that will expose anything for to get it. Why not wear a tux without a shirt once your at it?
@@PermanentStyleLondon that's like saying a 3-button suit must be fully buttoned. Nobody says the top shirt button must be buttoned, but if you wear one and expose your body hair down to your frieken belly, aside for nobody sane being interested, you are not cool or hip or stylish. Just a wannabe desperate for attention that will do anything crass to achieve it.
What suitcase is that ? Of everything in the video it is the best.
Nice to hear. It's mentioned in the product credits on the end slide
@@PermanentStyleLondon Good day. can you provide a link. I am in the US and my search queries send me to Burlington Coat Factory's luggage department.
@@delvesdg Hi. As it says in the credits at the end, it's not available online, only in the Burlington Street store
This man looks like eric ten hag
Excellent, more videos please Simon
I am so pleased to see you back on video.
Cheers. Lots more content on the PS site
Q. do you stuff you sock into your shoes as a make-shift 'shoe tree' ? Look forward to more videos. Regards Tony
Hey Tony, Yes! I usually have one pair of shoe trees with me, but a plastic one so it's not too heavy. But that's just for use when I'm at the destination. Socks are fine to put inside the shoes in the suitcase. Unless you're really over packing, they're not going to get crushed.
✅ 'Promosm'
Delightful to catch up with contemporary evolution of Anderson and Sheppard since I first acquired my bespoke suits from them over the course of 35 years. Their attention to detail is absolutely top drawer.
Nice to hear!
Have just tried this step-by-step on a merino/cashmere blend, a fairly thicker knit. There is a kind of mildew smell however, not far from a wet dog (sheep) smell. Is this normal, does it go? Does it need air or what? Hope you can help. Was quite therapeutic but definitely a skill in there!
It should be fine, yes. Has it entirely dried out yet? If it hasn't, do that first. If it has, try airing it outside or put some steam through it with an iron (hanging the knit on a hanger)
@@PermanentStyleLondon Will let it dry completely first and give that a try - thanks so much Simon!
No problem at all @@ManForToday
Thanks so much - this is incredibly helpful. People often talk about pressing in the context of why not to take a Jiffy steamer to a suit jacket, or simply allude to its mystique. But seeing the stretching and shrinking actually done clarifies the sculptor-like aspect of the craft a lot and makes it very clear what's at stake when it's time to clean a garment or take some wrinkles out. And of course it's invaluable to watch the workers' hands as they manipulate the fabric. This part will hopefully rub off a little as I maintain my own suiting at home. It may even help as I slowly graduate from a very basic level of sewing (basic hems and plans seams, mostly for home decor) to more challenging pieces.
Wonderful to hear, thank you
Kirby Alison has done more than any British organisation or British business heads to Saville row.
This was absolutely brilliant.
although it was mentioned in passing, I would be interested in asking how is global warming affecting the types of fabrics used for suits, and how it affects the quality of the garment? I guess it's always been a consideration in warmer areas such as southern italy, france etc, but technically there's been developments also in fabrics, so I wonder how suit making will adapt.
Thank you, an interesting one for another day. Savile Row has long tailored for warmer climates, but they have introduced lighter makes over time.
I really enjoyed your interview! My wife and I are coming to England next year and since your interview was so down to earth I will certainly stop by Anderson and shepherd! You do an excellent job!
That's lovely to hear, thank you
I wish I could have been there. Thank you so much for putting this together and sharing. I would have asked her 4 questions. But chief among them (and perhaps you could answer), she has an economics degree with an MBA (albeit in marketing), why doesn't AS buy a building on Savile Row? And I would ask this of all tailors on that street. Your company has been around for 100 years, 125 years, etc. Control costs. Surely as a business trained (and very smart) person, there has got to be a simple answer. I think I would like to buy the whole block and lease it back. Your thoughts?
I can see how that would help a business, certainly, but two major issues. One, it would be incredibly expensive and no tailor I know could afford it. And two, the buildings are all controlled by big estates that own a lot of properties - they are unlikely to want to sell such prime assets. It would be much easier if there were independent landlords, smaller ones, as there are more in Paris and New York
What a wonderful interview. I love how Anda keeps raising the points about the importance of welcoming all people to bespoke and championing young people's tailoring skills. A very engaging interview! Thanks Tony
very pleased you liked it Tony
Typical mindless talking points. Go back and look at older photos and you will see West Africans, Poles, etc… working as tailors. And the customers have always come from far and wide- India, the US, Africa, etc…
Very interesting thanks for doing this. Really living the dream! I went to Anglo Italian when I visited London and got a few pieces. Thanks for the guidance. Wondering, does made to measure have a measure have a bad association? She seemed to refer to mtm negatively.
Compared to bespoke clothing, yes it's a lower quality. MTM can still be very good, but if you're a storied bespoke tailor, doing MTM as well with your label in could be seen as diluting what you do
@@PermanentStyleLondonyeah that makes sense. That landed when she was talking about not being able to put their label on mtm tailoring. An anderson Sheppard grey herringbone spot coat is a grail. Excited to visit next time to London. I spent all time at drakes end Anglo Italian last visit
Excellent discussion. More please!
Thank you
Lovely discussion. This is my first introduction to Ms Rowland. Pleasure
Ah, nice to hear.
Eddie Hayes has a stake in A&S? Very cool, I see him often as his office is right by mine. I’d love to hear about the recent presence of a side body on A&S. Obviously people want trimmer suits, but what makes their house style unique these days?
I'd say quite a few things make their style unique, or at least the drape cut generally that is practised by a handful of tailors. If you're not familiar with that then maybe have a look at the A&S section of the Tailor's Style guide on PS - there's a whole breakdown there
@@PermanentStyleLondon my point is that their drape style is so dialed back they aren’t cutting like the used to, rather similar to every other house on the row, less maybe Richard James or huntsman
Are you wearing A&S suit Simon?
Yes, one cut for me by John Hitchcock 12 years ago.
Tiny Rowland was an intriguing character
Thank you Simon, so interesting especially Anda's father's days. I wish them every success for the future. I've just looked through her website,such beautiful clothes. I agree with her to show the clothes on models. What a great asset Anda is to the industry. I wish her every success.
I'd wear a suit everyday but living in a costal area I'd just look silly so how can this be addressed?
People face the same challenge everywhere today. If you look on the PS site we talk quite regularly about ways to dress down tailoring
If it helps, I live in a very casual coastal area and I wear suits to nice dinners/restaurants, art openings, performing arts events like symphony/ballet, more formal social events. Typically, my suits are for evening-wear and I do more smart casual items during the day.
All I can say is you’ll likely bring joy to your coastal area by dressing well. Nobody gets a smile on their face seeing a man in crocs
If you wear a business style formally cut suit with shirt and tie then you will stand out as maybe an anachronism. Wear a more casual suit with a t shirt and basketball boots. Try a black suit rather than business associated colours like navy or charcoal. Check the buttoning point on the suit jacket. (How high/ low the top button is placed.) If it's low it will look like the suit is meant to be worn with a shirt and tie. 2 buttons definitely not 3 on your jacket. No gold buttons unless you want to look like a retired admiral. In summer linen/cotton suits with a t shirt and driving shoes or white trainers won't look out of place in a coastal community. Don't advise pure linen as it will crease massively.
Hi Simon this video doesn’t show on youtube, I must go through your website to access this video on youtube
Thanks Marco, it's on now
Simon, you look so dapper, love your style, socks, shoes, how you sit even. If only i could dress the same, where i live in southern uk its very chavvy and scruffy dress. Do i just wear as you do because i like it?
To be honest, no I'd say you should always fit in with those around you to an extent. Perhaps have a look at the article 'Dress for others or for yourself' on the website. Also at the casual clothing section (in the menu) to see if there are any outfits that resonate with you and allow you to wear tailoring in your locale
Enjoyed the casual nature of this conversation. Good questions and you let Luke run with his answers.
Thanks Joseph. I am slowly getting better at that!
Can't help to say Sky is missing from his name 😅